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'<center>
<img alt="■成熟的咖啡果,貌似紅櫻桃。" height="322" src="/uploads/allimg/141210/1609242L6-0.jpg" width="510" /></center>
<p>
■成熟的咖啡果,貌似紅櫻桃。</p>
<p>
有一件事我非常好奇,咖啡源自非洲,可是在非洲許多地區,特別是在小鎮和村莊,卻很少有人喝咖啡。但走了一趟烏干達——盛產咖啡的故鄉,這個問題基本可以解答了。</p>
<p>
在烏干達靠近肯尼亞邊境的蒙巴利小鎮的Budadiri村,這裏擁有不少咖啡農場。其中,咖啡農場主Jaja Kate擁有幾十萬棵咖啡樹,每年9月至12月正是咖啡收穫的季節,我跟隨他在咖啡農場裏採摘着一顆顆通紅的咖啡豆,乍一看,這些熟透的咖啡豆像一個個小櫻桃,色彩很是誘人。</p>
<p>
Jaja Kate很健談,活得也很快樂,他帶着孩子們邊採摘咖啡豆,邊唱歌,他們一大家子與這些咖啡樹就像親人之間的關係,每天圍着這些咖啡樹轉,對每棵樹的生長了如指掌。</p>
<p>
聽Jaja Kate介紹說,栽培上乘的咖啡樹條件相當嚴格:陽光、雨量、土壤、氣候等,都會影響到咖啡的品質。日照是咖啡樹成長及結果必不可少的要素,但強烈的陽光也會影響品質,所以,這時候就需要周圍的香蕉樹、芒果樹等幫忙遮擋陽光,才能達到日照自然調節均衡。</p>
<p>
咖啡源自非洲的埃塞俄比亞,其後輾轉到中東阿拉伯地區的也門,所以有人稱之爲“阿拉比克”。之後,流傳到印度尼西亞爪哇島,從那裏又到了拉丁美洲。非洲咖啡早先生長在剛果、烏干達等地,爲羅伯斯特咖啡,還有一種在利比里亞生長,爲利比裏卡。1753年,瑞典植物學家卡爾·範·林內將咖啡分爲了三大原種,阿拉比克咖啡(約佔世界咖啡總量的70%)、羅伯斯特咖啡(原佔世界咖啡總量的25%),還有現在幾乎沒人問津的利比裏卡咖啡。</p>
<p>
目前,Jaja Kate種植的咖啡屬於阿拉比克咖啡,也是上乘的咖啡豆,當然,這與這一帶土壤和氣溫有關。因此,他很是得意,不過,問到他自己是否喝咖啡時,他卻說,只是偶爾喝,並不是每天的必需品。</p>
<p>
“既然常年與咖啡豆打交道,爲什麼不喜歡喝咖啡呢?”我問他。</p>
<p>
“儘管咖啡豆源於非洲,喝咖啡可並不是我們祖先傳承的嗜好,我們並沒有烘焙技術,那個時候,充其量也不過是自己把晾曬好的咖啡豆用手工搗碎了,加點開水喝,事實上,我們最喜歡嚼曬乾的咖啡豆。包括在民族訂婚和結婚儀式上,女方家族是要給男方家人送上曬乾的咖啡豆,用咖啡果實連接着兩家人的心,這纔是我們真正的傳統習俗。”</p>
<p>
這下我終於明白,爲什麼在當地,喝咖啡並不像歐美國家那麼盛行。當然,除了難度較大的烘焙技術之外,還有一項很重要的原因,當地人以出售咖啡豆謀生,哪捨得把上好品質的咖啡豆自己喝了呢,再者,人家從嚼咖啡豆中,也能體味着簡單又不失咖啡因香味的快感。</p>
<p>
終於有了一次機會參加布幹達族人的訂婚儀式,儀式的最後一個項目,果真是女方家長將晾曬好的咖啡豆交到準新郎和他的親人們手裏,之後大家一起有滋有味地分享嚼咖啡豆的喜悅,從中也預示着這樁婚姻能夠和和美美地持續下去。</p>
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